In pursuit of “good hair”



image“When your hair is relaxed white people are relaxed, when your hair is nappy white people aren’t happy.”

Comedian Paul Mooney joined black Hollywood actresses, scholars and entertainment industry insiders to comment on the state of black women’s hair in Chris Rock’s 2009 comedy documentary “Good Hair.”

In the documentary, Rock explores the great lengths to which black women will go to chemically straighten their hair or receive a desired hairstyle very unlike their natural hair. Rock shows women who spend $1,000 on a schoolteacher’s salary for hair extensions and explores the health risks associated with chemical hair relaxers used on everyone from young children to the elderly.

The term “good hair” is in reference to a grade of hair that is thought to be silky, straight, long and easy to manage. Many black women who have a naturally kinky, tight curl that is course and harder to style turn to chemical relaxers, hair extensions known as weaves, and high-heat styling tools to achieve “good hair.”

Women will pay a hefty price for upkeep and maintenance of this look. Weekly sessions in the hair salon to straighten hair with a pressing comb can cost customers $60 to $150 a pop. Weave hair, depending on the quality (human or synthetic), can range from $100 to upwards of $600 alone.

imageThe process of putting in the extensions, also known as tracks, can take four to six hours depending on the style and can cost women $200. Due to the hefty costs, health risks of these styles, and changing preferences of black women, the natural hair movement has gained momentum both online and on television.

Daytime talk show “Dr. Drew’s Lifechangers” gave the natural versus relaxed hair discussion national attention by addressing the issue on a November 2011 episode. Dr. Drew invited Kim Coles, a black actress and natural hair advocate, to host a panel of black women who wear their hair in a variety of styles from weaves to natural. The women shared the various personal and societal reasons that affect how they wear their hair.

After a heated exchange between the panelists and even audience members, Coles ended the show with a message to black women about their hairstyling choices.

“I want to say that it all has to do with self-love ultimately, self-love and honesty,” she said. “I want us all to be honest about why we do what we do and then choose and rock whatever you want to rock.”

In 1991, Coles started wearing her natural hair in microbraids. Before her braids, she wore weaves and had her hair relaxed. In January, she decided to take the final step and wear her hair in its most natural curly state. Coles waited years to wear her hair completely natural because she didn’t know which products to use. Through online forums and YouTube videos promoting natural hair, Coles got the extra push she needed.

image“I have watched you young-uns accept your hair and yourselves and you gave me the courage and the product knowledge to take the leap to be completely authentic,” Coles wrote on black beauty site Afrobella.

Black women have turned to the web to create a natural hair community to empower each other and create support for those contemplating the “big chop.” The big chop is known as the first step to going natural and is a haircut that removes all processed or relaxed hair leaving most women with a short curly afro and only a few inches of hair.

Countless YouTube channels, such as Natural Veil, receive thousands of views on videos that share ways to style natural hair and the best products to keep curly hair healthy.

Journalist and author Linda Jones created her website, A Nappy Hair Affair, in 1998 to “raise awareness about cultural diversity and to promote self-appreciation.”

Jones gave the disclaimer that she doesn’t promote nappy hair at the detriment to wear other hairstyles, but she said that styles that reflect a European aesthetic are predominantly promoted.

“We are a very stylish people, so I see perms and haircuts that are works of art,” she noted. “I get that, but at the same time, we are running away from those things that we were born with.”

imageJones and other natural hair advocates argue that going natural is a healthier lifestyle choice due to the harmful chemicals in relaxers. However, beautician Brandy Brown said that after styling hair for the past 21 years, she has seen otherwise.

“The natural look can also be damaging,” contested Brown. “Brushing your hair while wet can damage the elasticity.”

Brown said that the most popular hairstyles for her black clients are straight or weaves with loose curls. She joked that celebrities set the tone for what is “in” or popular – and if a celebrity is doing it, it has to be good.

Some women don’t always go natural by choice. FOX journalist and Huffington Post contributor Tomika Anderson’s hair started falling out after she relaxed her hair to close to getting it colored. Anderson went natural and never looked back. She considers her curly afro her trademark. Anderson said she loves her natural hair, but she understands that it’s every black woman’s right to choose what works for her.

“I’m not going to knock the sister who has a weave,” said Anderson. “I think it is great to have a mixture of hair styles because we are a mixture. There isn’t one look for black women and so there doesn’t need to be one kind of black woman in the media.”

Black women and femininity



imageModeled in a pose often seen in 18th century portraits, photographer Renee Cox sits on a silk, yellow, day bed with her back to the camera. Her head is turned to the side showing off her strong profile and a head full of dark brown and golden dreadlocks. Her posture is graceful, but strong and showcases her taught muscular back. Cox is nude and her rich caramel skin contrasts with the pale yellow cushions. She is wearing red heels and her slightly bent knees exaggerate her ample derrière.

Cox’s photograph Baby Back is from her collection of work called American Family and is one of the pieces that was included in “Posing Beauty in African American Culture,” an exhibit which ran at the USC Fisher Museum from September 7 to December 3, 2011.

Cox is known for her controversial work using her own body, as she says, “both nude and clothed, to celebrate black womanhood and criticize a society she often views as racist and sexist.”

Deborah Willis, a contemporary African-American artist, photographer and professor at New York University curated the exhibit that is being shown across the country.

“I was interested in looking at a story about beauty through photographs,” Willis said. “My main interest was to find images that were previously inaccessible that documented a race of African Americans that were largely ignored by American culture.”

The exhibit featured a diverse range of media that included photography, film, fashion and music to demonstrate the relationship between beauty and art. There were images of notable black celebrities such as actor Denzel Washington, rapper Lil’ Kim and model Susan Taylor next to historical photographs of African-American children dressed for Easter Sunday church services.

Willis’ purpose for putting together the exhibit wasn’t to define beauty, but instead show the ways in which beauty has been posed. She said she hopes the traveling exhibit, which will be on display at the Everhart Museum in Scranton, Pennsylvania from February 2nd to April 1st 2012, will spark a new dialogue around black women and beauty from a historical and contemporary perspective.

“This exhibit creates a way for people who are writing about black women to have a broader concept,” Willis added. “Black women in the media have begun to fight back and take control of how women should be seen. It is happening more and more, but it isn’t enough.”

As Willis implied, there have been other cases of African American artists like Cox who challenged black beauty and femininity in the media. Singer Erykah Badu appeared in headlines for her controversial music video “Window Seat.”

The video was shot in Dallas’ Dealey Plaza where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated in November. Badu strips her clothes as she walks through the city until she is completely nude. As the video ends, a gunshot is heard and Badu falls to the ground. Many in the public were outraged by the public nudity displayed in her video and the allusions to the death of President Kennedy.

Badu defended her video in interviews and on Twitter. In a music mix review from Entertainment Weekly, reporter Simon Vozick-Levinson writes “she was trying to make a point about how social conformity punishes those who transgress its rules.”

imageBaby Back by Renee Cox

Nicole Fleetwood, an American Studies professor at Rutgers University and author of Troubling Vision: Performance, Visuality and Blackness, defended Badu’s artistic license and challenged the American public and media. “If a white man had done that it would have gathered a response, but since it was a black woman it questioned her access to public art,” Fleetwood said. “People questioned if Erykah Badu was doing this to revive her career as if her career needed to be revived.”

Viewers and commentators alike have also been critical of the representation of black women in reality television. VH1 shows such as “Basketball Wives” and “Love and Hip Hop” feature a predominantly African American cast. The women on each of the shows are typically affluent and dressed in high-fashion designer duds. The reality TV stars reached their level of fame either through their NBA significant others or through their own businesses.

The season opener of “Basketball Wives LA,” a spinoff of the original Miami show “Basketball Wives,” ended with the ladies getting kicked out of a restaurant. Tensions rose between Malaysia Pargo, wife of the Chicago Bulls’ Janerro Pargo, and Laura Govan, fiancée of the Orlando Magic’s Gilbert Arenas, when the two ladies made rude comments about each other’s upbringing. After exchanging insults, both women stood up from the table, yelled in each other’s faces and attempted to swing at one another. At the time of the taping, Pargo had an 8-month old child and Govan had given birth three weeks before.

Dr. Terrion Williamson, a Michigan State University English professor is currently researching black culture and media studies. Williamson is critical of audience members and commentators who judge African American women through the lens of reality TV alone.

“The angry black woman is part of reality television,” Williamson explained. “I understand the trouble folks have with it, but I want them to understand that this is what reality TV does. Everyone is type cast.”

Williamson said that other races are also stereotyped by reality TV. These characters include the dumb jock, blonde bimbo and the spicy Latina.

Williamson is quick to point out that positive images of African American women do exist on TV. For example, in the 17th season of “America’s Next Top Model,” supermodel Tyra Banks’ competition show, had four different African American contestants.

University of Southern California professor and linguistic anthropologist, Dr. Lanita Jacobs agreed with Williamson’s assessment of both the positive and negative images of African American women on TV. Jacobs said she believes that it’s too easy for viewers to wag their fingers at the negative images because some of the shows have a positive impact.

“I think that black women’s behavior on some of these shows corroborate some of black women’s behavior [in real life], but also challenge the expectations of what constitutes feminity,” Jacobs said.

Is marriage just for white people?



“If you liked it, then you shoulda put a ring on it. Don’t be mad once you see that he want it. If you liked it, then you shoulda put a ring on it.”

For some, the catchy, chart topping, independent-female anthem, “Single Ladies” is fun to dance to on a night out or sing in the shower, but for others the jingle by pop sensation Beyonce has a more serious message.

Rap mogul Jay Z put a ring on it in 2008 when he and the singer were married after dating for six years. While many African American women know they’ll never have Beyonce’s killer dance moves, the stark reality is that they won’t have her fairytale wedding either.

According to an October 11th ABC Nightline segment, “70 percent of black women are unmarried, compared to 45 percent of white women.”

For some, this statistic is startling. For many African-American women, it comes as no surprise.

imageIt almost begs the question “Is marriage just for white people?” Author Richard Banks tackles this issue in connection with interracial dating in his latest book, “Is Marriage for White People? How the African-American Marriage Decline Affects Everyone.”

Banks addresses this predicament by exploring the lives of the African-American middle class. He finds that not only are African-American women the most unmarried group of people in our nation, but they are also more likely to marry someone who is less educated or earns less than they do.

“Black women have fought the good fight. They have engaged in a noble endeavor of trying to lift black men and that strategy hasn’t really worked,” said Banks on Nightline.

His research and book conclude that African-American women should explore their options outside of their race. On the book’s website, Banks said that although interracial marriage is seen as an abandonment of the race, for African-American women it unquestionably serves the race.

In the same segment, Nightline reported that African-American women are the least likely to marry outside of their race at just 9 percent. However, 41 percent of Hispanic women and 48 percent of Asian women marry interracially.

What Nightline didn’t mention were the hardships some African-American women face when they do decide to date outside of their race.

imageActress and singer Shvona Chung remembered a time when she was on a lunch date with her ex-boyfriend and his mother. “My date had to correct his mother on the proper way to address someone from African-American descent, ‘No mom, no one says Negro anymore,’ [he said] as I sat in amazement,” Chung wrote on her Yahoo Shine blog.

Chung is a product of an interracial relationship. Her mother is Indian and white and her father is African-American. She grew up in Queens, New York. She says she dated “blindly” from a young age. “I don’t have a preference or anything. I just like men,” Chung says.

Her long-term relationships include two with African-American men and one with a Jewish man from Australia. She has also had multiple short-term relationships with Asian men.

Although Chung and her family embraced her Korean husband from the time they dated, Ted Chung’s conservative, Asian family felt otherwise toward Shvona.

Chung says that Asians have a hierarchy and Koreans hold themselves at the top because they have the lightest complexion.

Although she comes from mixed parents, her African-American heritage is evident in her caramel skin, full lips and curly hair.

“I definitely got snubbed at times,” Chung says about her in-laws’ behavior. “There was a lot of sarcasm and judgments of my family because a lot of my family is remarried.”

The Chung family grew to accept Shvona with time and because their son wouldn’t tolerate their negative attitude. Shvona says the most important thing to make an interracial relationship work is to stand up to the family that has a problem with it.

“I have a lot of friends who are beautiful black women who have great jobs and make a lot of money and they’re still single,” she says.

Chung says she believes that there are good African-American men out there and tells her friends to keep hope alive. She also recommends that her friends be open to all people regardless of race.

Tomika AndersonThirty-five year old Fox news writer and freelance journalist Tomika Anderson didn’t hear Chung’s advice directly, but is following suit. Anderson has held editor positions at MTV News.com, Time, Inc. and was the senior editor of popular African American luxury and lifestyle publication UPTOWN magazine.

Anderson is African American, single and lives in New York City. In a recent piece she penned for the Huffington Post titled “Not Jumping Ship, Simply Expanding The Fleet,” Anderson explains why her reason to date interracially has less to do with African American men and more to do with her.

“I made a vow to myself to only marry (and have children with) a man with whom I am truly compatible, regardless of how much melanin he has,” wrote Anderson. “It’s a vow I intend to keep.”

Anderson appeared on the same Nightline special as author Richard Banks and gave viewers a front row seat as she dipped into the interracial dating pool. Cameras followed Anderson to a speed-dating event where she went on dates with nine men who weren’t African American. The men were from the U.S., Germany, Bangladesh, India and Egypt and five asked to see Anderson again.

Anderson isn’t “ex-ing” African American men off of her dating list, instead she’s expanding her options and is optimistic about the outcome.

“I figure that if I remain open to the possibilities and hang out in places where I can interact with men of other cultures, it’s not so much a question of access, it’s really just a matter of time,” she wrote.

Here’s the “Nightline” episode mentioned in the article. The segment “Is Marriage for White People?” begins at 7:20.

Preschoolers celebrate Dr. Seuss’ birthday with the Cat in the Hat



Preschoolers at the Ozzie Goren Center celebrated Dr. Seuss’ 106th birthday and the 13th annual “Read Across America” program. The women of Delta Sigma Theta Head Start Preschool helped organize the event and orchestrated a guest appearance by the Cat in the Hat. The children were thoroughly surprised and enjoyed the reading of the stories, “The Shape of Me” and “Green Eggs and Ham.”

The “Read Across America” program is encouraging young students to read for at least 30 minutes a day with an adult.

Ariele Pratt filed this report for Annenberg Radio News.

Preschoolers sat cross-legged in a semi circle anxiously waiting a special guest at the Ozzie Goren Center in Los Angeles. The three and four-year-olds each wore a handmade white and red striped hat in honor of beloved Dr. Seuss character, the Cat in the Hat.

Today marks Dr. Seuss’ 106th Birthday and the 13th annual “Read Across America” program. The Cat in the Hat made a surprise visit at the Ozzie Goran Center with the help of the Delta Sigma Theta Head Start Preschool organization.

Head Start Educational Specialist, Janice Allen says that today’s event is invaluable to both the children and the volunteers.
The children hung on to every word and watched closely as the Cat in the Hat acted out the stories, “The Shape of Me” and “Green Eggs and Ham.”

City council members and community leaders are also participating in the celebration and will be reading to the children for the rest of the day.]