Award-winning chef believes in South LA



By Megan Sweas

When Ricardo Zarate first opened his South LA Peruvian restaurant in 2009, he thought it was going to be a failure. “For two months I was open, I was making zero money,” he says. “Even if I charged 12 dollars for a dish…my food was too expensive for the area.”

imageToday Zarate’s Mo-Chica, located in Mercado La Paloma at W. 37th St. and Grand Ave, pulls in customers from all over Los Angeles. Named one of 2011’s best new chefs by Food & Wine, Zarate has a new restaurant, Picca, in Beverly Hills and is planning to open up another Mo-Chica in downtown L.A.

“The fact that [Zarate is] finally getting the praise that his food deserves is telling of the space we have here,” remarks the Mercado’s art coordinator, Damon Turner.

imageTurner describes Mercado La Paloma as a small business incubator. With support from the city and foundations, Esperanza Community Housing Corporation transformed an old garment factory into a market space that includes restaurants, service businesses, arts and crafts shops, and non-profit organizations.

“I think I’m one of their biggest examples,” Zarate says.

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The goal of this Peruvian-born chef is to bring the food of his homeland, with both its Incan roots and Asian influences, to the level of French, Italian, and Japanese cuisine. After he failed to convince investors of his vision, he decided to start the business with his own money. When he saw Mercado La Paloma, he fell in love with the space. But the location proved troublesome. Local residents were unable to afford his cuisine.

imageSurrounded by a field, storage facilities, warehouses, and the DMV, the Mercado is easy to miss. Even though it’s very close to the University of Southern California, the 110 freeway separates it from campus, hiding it from view. Students end up going to fast-food places like Subway, not knowing they could support a local business and get a good meal, says Zarate.

In spite of the challenges, Zarate’s investment paid off. His success has also been good for the Mercado. “It brings people from the other side of Los Angeles,” Zarate points out. “A lot of customers thought, ‘Hey, I’m going here and I’ve never been to this area ever in my life,’ and thanks to Mo-Chica they came.” That’s an accomplishment he’s proud of – helping people from different cultures and parts of the city come together thanks to his food.

Listen to what the chef has to say about his early struggles with the restaurant and his love for Mercado La Paloma in the following video: